Sunday, April 6, 2014

Venice Realized

In my Venice Imagined essay, I did not lay out any real expectations I had for Venice, but rather questions I wanted answered. Namely, I wondered about how the culture of a city changes when you take the cars out of it. The answer to that was, no surprisingly, everything slows down. Dinner takes two hours instead of fifteen minutes, and as we heard from our guide to the clock tower, time is significant only to the hour, not the minute. What most stuck out to me, however, was how normal the lack of cars felt. Walking around Venice for a week was a reminder of how natural it is for humans to move no faster than they can run and just how different our lives are from this natural state because of the vehicle.


            While walking around Venice, I noticed that I felt much calmer than I normally do. I thought that the cause of that might have been the sudden relief from the massive amount of homework that comes along with being an engineering student, but at the same time, I knew that it was still looming for next week and thus eliminated that as the cause. I realized that the particular calm I was feeling was not something I felt every day, but something I had felt before. Namely, it was similar to how I felt while hiking well into the backcountry of Yosemite or Rocky Mountain National Park. From that observation, I was able to identify the common thread that I think was the cause – in both cases, there are no cars.
            I think that cars cause us more stress than we realize, particularly when we’re walking near them. Consider running a race. If I was cruising along at whatever pace I’ve set and suddenly someone passed me, it would likely shake my nerves a bit. I’d likely think that my pace wasn’t fast enough, and I’d run a little faster. If it happened again, I’d try to run even faster. This would continue until I was running too fast for me to maintain the speed I was running at.
            Life is not a race per se, but I don’t believe we’re immune to the effects of cars constantly zooming past us. Unconsciously, we walk a little faster. We work a little longer. We spent a little less time relaxing. We are confronted with the fact that someone else is doing more with their time than us every time we are passed. Whether we realize it or not, simply being around cars quickens the pace of our lives and raises the amount of stress in them.
            Then there is Venice. No one is going anywhere in a hurry because no one can. There are still jobs that need to be done and places to be, but nothing is quite as urgent. Sitting down and having a three-hour long meal with friends no longer seems like a time drain, but rather something that is desirable, even necessary. I didn’t find myself constantly thinking of what needed to be done next. Rather, I focused on what was happening in the present.


            Additionally, Venice is much quieter than any other city I’ve ever been to because of the lack of cars. This struck me the most when we were walking back from dinner at Osteria alla Staffa around ten at night. I thought about how noisy Chicago is at the same time of night. The rumble of the “L” can be heard periodically, buses whoosh by, and cars honk. The background noise is virtually indistinguishable from that of the daytime. In Venice, however, there is near silence. Boat traffic seems to die down to nearly nothing, and it disappears once you’re far enough inland. All the noises of people out in the streets working during the day have died off. The only sound is of the footsteps of the group your walking with and perhaps of running water if you’re close enough to a canal. To think of Chicago ever being so quiet is unimaginable.

            In the “On the Exotic” chapter of The Art of Travel, Botton suggests that what we are attracted to abroad is “what we hunger for in vain at home.” In Venice, I found a slower pace of life that simply isn’t possible in any part of urban America along with all of the resources, such as museums and restaurants, which can be found only in cities. I am glad I was able to experience this beautiful lifestyle, if only for a week.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Blog Post: The Food of Venice

I think my number one reason for traveling is the food, so after spending a week in Venice, I think its about time to talk about the food. It's safe to say that its been a good week. Highlights have included prosciutto e funghi pizza from the little place over in San Elena, the little fruit-filled pastries that can be purchased for a euro at the bakeries scattered throughout the city, and the seafood risotto at Sotoportego, which I would definitely say is the best risotto I've ever eaten. I've also had at least one gelato every day I've been here, which I know I'll miss once I get back home. I've been posting a photo of each gelato on Facebook for the entertainment of my family, and I'll include them at the end of this post as well. The biggest surprise for me was probably the polenta. As it turns out, Italian polenta and the American version of it bear almost no resemblance to each other. 

Most of this post, however, deserves to be devoted to one meal. A few of us decided that we needed to have a proper multi-course Italian dinner before the end of the trip. On Dr. Felluga's recommendation, we headed to Osteria alla Staffa on Wednesday. We arrived promptly at 6:30, but being on Venetian time, the owner didn't open his doors until 7 or so. Upon going in, it was immediately apparent alla Staffa didn't cater to tourists so much, as evidenced by the Italian-only menu. 

Virtually helpless in our efforts to understand the menu, we told our waiter, who was also the owner, our desire to experience a full Italian dinner and asked for recommendations. As a passionate restaurant owner always is, he was delighted to help us out. He wanted us to experience the most Venetian meal we could, so virtually everything we ate was seafood based. He had us start out with two antipasti: one a platter of all things fish and the other something resembling a crab cake.


There was a small raw octopus on the seafood platter, which didn't phase me much as a sushi lover. However, it was a source of apprehension for the others. Erik Swan was brave enough to eat the head. When I had a scallop, I realized that this was probably going to be the start the best meal of my life to date, and I was right.

For the primo, the owner gave us half portions of two different pastas. I know one had some sort of cod based sauce, but in truth, I have no idea what they were. I have eaten nothing like either of them before, and the only description of what they tasted like that I can give is really, really, REALLY good.
At that point, I thought it couldn't get any better, but then came the secondo. It was a fish similar to flounder along with some baked vegetables. I thought this dish was a good example of how really good cooking makes a collection of ingredients come together to be one food completely different from its constituents. It had vegetables in it, but was if they had ceased to be vegetables. They had seemingly become something completely new, and this new thing was delicious. 
Then there was tiramisu. This tiramisu indisputably proved that Plato's idea of universals not physically existing to be false. It was the perfect tiramisu. It was the perfect texture, it had the perfect balance of espresso and chocolate, and it had the perfect sweetness. Thankfully, the owner gave us an American sized piece of this life-changing tiramisu. It certainly ruined all other tiramisu for me. 

We finished up with macchiatos, which were quite nice. Upon looking at time, we realized that we had been happily eating and socializing for nearly three hours without anyone looking at their phones, along with everyone else in the small restaurant. I took two things from that observation. One, the Italians know how to enjoy a meal, and through that process, their friends, a lot better than us. I wish that dinner would always be such a grand affair for us as well. Two, with the hours that alla Staffa operates, they essentially have a single party per table for the whole night, in contrast to the American standard of frantically turning tables. 

Eating in Italy makes me appreciate just how beautiful it is to sit down over a meal with your family or friends. There is perhaps no better way to simply enjoy the people your with. 


Chocolate Hazelnut on the first night

Lemon

Pistachio 

Pistachio , cherry, manicotti cheese (I was skeptical about the manincotti, but it was awesome)
 i
Peach and strawberry

Green apple

Mixed berry (heaven)

Blackberry cheesecake (heaven again)

Mango and strawberry

Tiramisu 

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Tourists: A Thick Despriction

In my time here, I have rediscovered the existence of two contradictory Venices: one inhabited by locals that have often spent their entire lives here and another by a constantly changing flux of tourists that spent only a couple of days here. I find the latter to be a particularly interesting group. Venice is of course extraordinarily unique, but this group is completely indistinct for tourists mobbing any other famous location anywhere else in the world. The tourists in Venice, as well as anywhere else, are incredibly homogeneous in their habits, and the services catering to them are roughly the same everywhere as well.
 The tourists come to Venice from all corners of the world, and arrive there by many different means. Their paths almost all seem to converge when they step off the vaporetto at the San Zaccharia stop just a short walk from Piazza San Marco. They wander off the boat, wander out of the station, and wander onto the island. They are greeting immediately by a vendors from an incredibly varied mix of nationalities. Some of them may sell souvenirs specific to Venice, but often times, their wares consist of products that could come from anywhere, such as knock-off sunglasses and purses and t-shirts that display mildly crass messages . The tourists eyes wander from stall to stall, and among all of the magic of a city floating in a lagoon, they decide that their first order of business will be to buy a fake pair of Ray-bans.
This business taken care of, they set off to undertake the mission they came to Venice to accomplish: to take pictures of everything they are told is famous to proudly display to jealous family and friends. They move in mob with a sinusoidal velocity. The mob clusters together in a slow crawl as it passes the Bridge of Sighs, the Doge's Palace, the columns guarding the entrance to the piazza, the campanile, and the Bascilia San Marco as the tourists frantically take pictures of these famous landmarks from at least twenty-seven different angles. They take so many photos many of them probably don't ever see the city except through a camera lens. This accomplished, they move quickly to collect their photo of the next destination, and the mobs thins out for a while. This succession of points of interest mark a path follow by every tourist in Venice. 
  


After taking a respectable number of photos of all of the critical famous landmarks, the tourists set out to find a restaurant selling "real" Italian food. These restaurants conveniently line the streets immediately bordering the Piazza San Marco with a safe view of the escape route back to the tourist's hotel. The tourist can be certain that these restaurants are authentic as they proudly display "Real Italian Food" in twenty languages other than Italian on their menus outside, which also offer several languages. After having an Italian hamburger for lunch, its time for authentic, British-made gelato at the gelataria next door for the low price of five euros. 
When you are in the heart of one of these tourist mobs, you feel as if all of Venice must be a sea of tourists with no trace of actual Venetians. Then, you turn off onto a side street, and you almost instantly find yourself in a different world. Signs are suddenly only in Italian. People walk as if they are going somewhere, and they don't point cameras at everything. Gelato is now a euro fifty. This is the local Venice. It exists merely feet from tourist Venice, but it is a separate world. It seems hard to justify the coexistence of the two, but, paradoxically, one cannot exist the other. Venice's economy relies heavily on the money the tourists bring in, and the tourists would not have a city to visit if the Venetians weren't there to care for it. When one considers this, it seems a little less like the presence of the tourists doesn't violate the traditions of the locals. Indeed, as a center of trade, Venice has been a place that outsiders have passed through frequently for its entire history. 

The tourist world of Venice is exactly the same as the tourist world of any other destination. It might be the Eiffel Tower instead of the campanile of San Marco, or the Vatican instead of the basilica, but there are invariably things to take pictures of and a mob of people attacking them with cameras. There is always the same vendor selling the same cheap sunglasses. All these other worlds are just like that of Venice's in that they are easy to escape. One wrong turn, and you just might actually experience another culture. It's lucky for us that such mistakes are easy to make.